Villas And Farmhouses In Corfu

Boring Paxos? It sounds like the perfect family holiday to me...

The taxi driver who took us from Corfu's airport to its port informed us we would be bored out of our minds on the island where we were going to spend our holiday.

'Cheers,' I thought. I ignored him. I had done my homework and knew Paxos was just perfect for me, my husband David, our sons Lucas, five, and Theo, 18 months, and my mum. Peace, quiet and plenty of swimming were exactly what we were after.

We reached Gaios, the main port and capital, after an hour on the hydrofoil. We snaked up into the hills in the centre of the island in our hired car along narrow, ancient, dry-stonewall lanes, passing ancient olive groves, abandoned olive presses. The island is covered with olive groves after Venetian occupation in 1386. Thousands of olive trees were introduced when the Paxiots were paid for each tree planted.

We were staying at Villa Kastanida, a restored farmhouse near the sleepy village of Magazia. Soon we were relaxing by the pool, enjoying the views of the olive groves all around us, while yellow butterflies fluttered over the water.

Paxos is a tiny island, only seven miles long, with three harbour towns, Gaios, Lakka and Loggos, all on the east coast. There are plenty of secluded beaches that I wanted to discover but reaching them by car seemed tricky.

We soon found our guidebook map didn't have enough detail and frequently got lost driving down paths which would suddenly fade away. The map to have - we later found out - was called Bleasdale's. We never got lost again. It is full of detail, absolutely everything seems to be marked.

A beach that was relatively easy to reach by car was Levrechio, just next to Loggos, the smallest and, I thought, most attractive of the three towns on the island. As soon as we arrived, we all dived into the blue sea. We could see Greece's mainland just across the water.

The beach is backed by the taverna Bouloukos, where we later sat in the shade of olive trees to enjoy mezedhes (starters), including a fantastic tzatziki, and a wonderful sea view.

Loggos has plenty of boats for hire, all bobbing beautifully on a waterfront lined with tavernas. We realised it would be easier to discover the islands of Paxos and Antipaxos by hiring a boat, so we booked one from a man called Panos for the following day.

In the morning, David was given some instruction by Panos.

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Known as the Emerald Island, Corfu has long been one of the most popular of the Greek islands. A rich history and the influence of many invading nations has seen Corfu become one of the most cosmopolitan islands in the Mediterranean. Corfu Town, the island's capital, is one of the most beguiling cities in the Mediterranean. Its unique character is a product of the many architectural styles left behind by various occupying nations.The old city is the largest living mediaeval city in Greece; its narrow streets and alleyways paved with cobblestones wind past ancient churches and Venetian tenements. One of the best loved and attractive Greek islands, Rhodes has a beautiful coastline, a fascinating medieval town and charming traditional villages. Rich history and the influence of invading cultures has caused Rhodes to become one of the most interesting and diverse of theGreek islands to visit.The town of Rhodes built within the walls of the old city has been identified by UNESCO as a Monument of International Heritage and is a must for any tourist to visit. Further down the coast the picturesque village of Lindos, dominated by the magnificent Acropolis towering above it provides one of the most stunning views in Greece. Known as Calliste (Most Beautiful) in ancient Greek, Santorini is an island of spectacular scenery formed by the constant eruptions of a now dormant volcano thought to be the source of the legend of Atlantis.Thira, the capital with its winding narrow streets, arcades and whitewashed houses, is perched precariously above towering cliffs overlooking a crystal sea.Also unmistakably unique to the island are the spectacular black sand volcanic beaches with their sheer mountain backdrop.Due to the hilly nature of the island, Santorini is not an ideal location for those with walking difficulties, the elderly or the infirm. The largest of the Greek islands separates the Aegean from the Libyan Sea and marks the boundary between Europe and Africa. Visitors wishing to explore the island will find Crete has much to offer. The scenery constantly changes, from the mountains in the interior to plateaus split by deep gorges and fertile valleys full of olive trees and orange groves. Here you will find old stone farmhouses, monasteries and villages many of which have not changed in centuries.

The rough guide to the Greek islands

The spectator

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Fodor's Greek Islands, 2nd Edition

Fodor's Greece, 9th Edition